In the northwest of China lies a cultural gem that combines stunning desert landscapes, unique ancient architecture and historical significance, as well as a reflection of how the Chinese people treat an enemy.
In October this year, I set off from Hong Kong and travelled more than 3,500 kilometres north-west to Jiayuguan (嘉峪關) Pass, the westernmost point of the Ming Great Wall. The scene here was very different from Hong Kong: in the dry air, my vision was filled with sparse vegetation and the vast Gobi Desert.
Jiayuguan is considered important for China for several reasons.
Nestled in the arid landscapes of Gansu province, Jiayuguan is a city rich in history and cultural significance. Known primarily for its impressive Jiayuguan Pass, the western terminus of the Great Wall of China, Jiayuguan has long been a pivotal point in interregional trade, military defense, and cultural exchange, especially between the Han Chinese and the Xiongnu (匈奴) tribes with whom they were often at war.
Jiayuguan’s historical prominence dates back to the Ming Dynasty (明代，1368-1644), during which the Great Wall was rebuilt and expanded to protect the eastern territories from invasions. The Jiayuguan Pass was constructed in 1372 under the Ming Emperor Hongwu and served as a critical military fortress.
Its strategic location allowed it to guard the Silk Road, the ancient trade route that facilitated the exchange of goods and ideas between East and West. The robust architecture of the pass, with its fortified walls and watchtowers, exemplifies the ingenuity of Chinese military engineering.
The relationship between the Han Chinese and the Xiongnu, a nomadic tribe that roamed the steppes of northern China, has profound historical roots. The Xiongnu emerged as a significant force during the Western Han Dynasty (206 BCE-9 CE) and posed a considerable threat to the stability of northern border regions.
The Han Dynasty’s interactions with the Xiongnu were characterized by both conflict and diplomacy; military campaigns were launched to subdue them, but diplomatic marriages and peace treaties were also employed to foster coexistence.
After the arduous journey to the western regions initiated by Zhang Qian (張騫), the famous Han diplomat, the Silk Road was established as such, opening up avenues for trade and cultural interaction. Jiayuguan, as a critical junction, became an important hub where Han merchants and Xiongnu traders could meet. While the two groups were culturally distinct and often at odds, trade necessitated a level of cooperation. Goods such as silk, spices, and oxen flowed between the Han and the Xiongnu, leading to a gradual exchange of ideas and cultural practices.
While the historical relationship was often tumultuous, it also laid the foundation for mutual influence. The spread of Chinese agricultural practices into Xiongnu territory and, conversely, the introduction of nomadic livestock rearing techniques to the Han were key examples of this exchange. Over time, the dualities of conflict and trade cultivated a complex dynamic. Marital alliances, intercultural dialogues, and shared struggles against external foes fostered a duality that occasionally tilted towards parity.
Despite frequent military confrontations, there were periods of harmony where the Xiongnu even became integrated into the Han system through titles and appointments. This involved assimilation and mutual respect, allowing both sides to thrive, at least temporarily.
As centuries passed, the Xiongnu socio-political structure saw shifts, leading to their eventual decline and fragmentation. The evolving landscapes of rivalry and alliance, particularly during the rise and fall of various dynasties, epitomize the historical narrative of Jiayuguan as a confluence of different cultures. While the Xiongnu culture eventually became overshadowed by the expanding Han influence, their shared history remains a testament to the intricate relations formed over centuries.
Today, Jiayuguan is recognized not only for its historical military importance but also for its role as a symbol of cross-cultural exchanges in ancient China. Its majestic pass continues to attract tourists, echoing tales of resilience, commerce, and cooperation between the Han and the Xiongnu, reverberating through the ages. Jiayuguan stands as a pivotal reminder of the rich tapestry of interactions that shaped China’s history, serving as both a geographical and cultural intersection for diverse peoples.
All images are by Emily Zhou